The Second Day At Goecha La

The first night in the tent and I had an intermittent sleep. The legs were hurting badly and it was difficult to change the sleeping orientation. But the -30C North Face sleeping bags were excellent to kill the cold. The morning is excellent - clear, crisp and the sun shines with full conviction.

From my breakfast point, I can see the Welsh couple, with whom I had interacted the previous day, pose beside the Chortens below. The horses and mules graze. The long blades of sunlight that pour through the clouds make it a pleasant slight. Everyone is getting ready to start the day. But the clouds rush in fast. Good weather in the hills is a rarity during the summer months. It’s the autumn season when weather is almost clear and predictable.

Tsokha is the last place from where you can get mobile connectivity. I make a call back home saying that I will call again after a week(almost). After the breakfast of toasts, eggs and tea, we resume the walk.

A little above Tsokha is the snow line. I find the going uber tough. My legs hurt me too much as I break the wooden pathways. These pathways have been designed to make the trek a little more easier.

Resting for a while makes me feel good. There is a deafening silence in each pause.

You can listen to the wind.

To the droplets of water that fall from the hanging icicles.

Even your own breathing.

And sometimes your own heartbeat.

The effect of altitude shows. The breaths are drawn and heavy. I munch off the cashew nuts that I have been carrying. Share some of them with Justin. Breaks are an excuse to rest.

The second day is another long one. Actually a lot tougher than the first. While from a distance standpoint it is lesser, but today involves climbing over the Deorali Top that lies at 13500+ ft.

At Phedang, a 2000ft gain from Tsokha lies a trekkers hut where we are supposed to have lunch. A little drizzle accompanies me as I enter the hut. Justin brings me a glass of tea, as I stand on the porch jostling for space with other folks. The drizzle, meanwhile, has turned into falling snow and later into a snow storm that hits hard on the ground..The wind blows strong on the open land and I can hear the gale like winds. In a moment, what seems to be not more than 5 mins, the burnt yellow grasses at Phedang have been moulded in the white snow. But in the next 15 mins the sun rises again and I can see the vapours rising from the snow.The outside is so cold, but the tea makes up it. It is the perfect antidote for the body.

Magnolias on the way

After a simple lunch, we continue the climb. The gradient is staggering. I continue to climb, but the climb does not end. Sometimes, when I am able to see the overcast sky, beyond the last mountain edge, I feel that’s the top. But once I get to that top, I see that its only the end point of a ridge. Sometimes a determination comes over me. I go beyond my strength and literally race a few steps at one go but that is followed by a pause of heavy breathing. Not advisable. I set myself “short targets”. Like reach that next point 50 ft higher in the next 15 mins. Complete the short targets and you will end up closing up on the goal.

As I continue to rise, the mist starts to get thicker. The path climbs sheerly through the mountain sides and there are sharp drops beside the path. The visibility is low and extends to only a couple of meters ahead of me. The walk for the past hour has been through thinning vegetation and that is more pronounced now. And turn after turn, as we continue to rise, my mind seasoned by now not to think about the Deorali top – comes a flat piece of land, with a chorten and Buddhist prayer flags. Out of nowhere, when I had completed shut my mind to reaching the goal, comes the Deorali top. Its time to do a mini jig, sip some water, take a well-deserved rest and then descend to Dzongri,.

Thansing Valley

Trekking is about endurance. Not like a motorcycle racing down a road. That is good. And that is Bad.Good because you can enjoy the views and soak in the beauty. And bad, because it requires tremendous motivation to walk slow and hold steady. More so if you are solo like me. Hours will pass by, but the view would remain the same.

The descent from to Dzongri is almost flat. We have entered rhododendron country, but they are completely covered with fresh snow. Fluffy.

Walking through snow is easy.

Walking down the slope is easier.

Reaching the destination brings about a joy that nothing else can give.

Rocky Face of Pandim, as viewed from Lamuney in the evening

And so, at around 3 in the afternoon, with feather soft snow falling across the Dzongri valley, I enter my tent. A kettle of hot orange juice is handed over which I sip and munch onto some cream biscuits. The valley has been carpeted in white and it doesn’t look like that the snow fall is going to stop anytime soon.

Time to dig myself into the sleeping bag and if possible get some sleep.

Mt Thinchenkhan

Outside the snow pelts hard on the tent. When I open the tent zipper, I see that the sky is dark and it looks ominous. The wind too has picked up strongly and resembles a blizzard now. The evening ends, night falls and it has become pitch dark outside. I hear the swaying bells and baying of the Dzos which are kept in the open. Justin comes to my tent and calls me for dinner. Grudgingly I eat and try to sleep later. But the sleep doesn't come quickly.