Sunday, January 4, 2015

Zuluk and the Old Silk Route - Part VIII

We pause by Tsomgo for a few photographs. On the way down from Tsomgo I encounter some really wide stretches of good roads. But there are times when the road is a feet deep stream over rocks and boulders. There are some narrow escapes when I just get away from dipping my shoes in the water. I expect the weather to turn worse, but it holds steady.There are waterfalls which appear on the way. The motorcycle by now is all washed in colours of brown and black. Its tyres have deep cuts and furrows from the sharp edged stones.

The sun grows weaker and its rays hit my eyes. At the 17th mile Lobzang indicates me to pull over. We break for lunch. I tuck into a plate of steaming momos, whereas he prefers rice. The momos are warm and fulfilling. I hold the momo with my fingers delicately and bite into the half of it. As I bite into the momo, I watch the vapour evolve from the other half, in my fingers. Lobzang, the shopkeeper lady, her assistant are all a relaxed lot. They share a lot of mirth and laughter during the half an hour that we spend there.


Sherathang War Memorial
On the way, further down a slope, a road construction company has blocked the road. I sit on the saddle for a while and ponder about reaching the hotel early. But my wait gets extended. It seems that the construction will take a little longer than anticipated. So, I push down the side stand of the cycle and get down. And as I do so, the motorcycle rolls and falls down. I had not expected this to happen. Two of us, Lobzang and me, pick it up and rest it on the main stand. The headlamp cover gets mangled due to the fall. But what it also does is, it burns a hole in my confidence.

After the road opens, we resume the remaining journey. At the 3rd mile police check post, I show the permit papers. It is time for Lobzang and me to separate.

I breakaway.
With the sinking rays in my eyes.
With the gripping cold that it brings with it.
With the feeling of success that floats in the air.
With the happiness that I must have got in a long, long time.

I descend fast along the sweeping roads. Ask a few people for directions to my hotel and with the setting sun that casts an orange hue along the hills everywhere, I reach the hotel.
Tsomgo

Later that evening, I spend a couple of hours in the library.
Transfer the photos to the laptop.
Write down the trip diary.
Have a tall drink of whisky and a quiet dinner.

The hardships of the day has given away to a calm and peaceful night. Back in the room, a lot of tiredness and the fatigue overcomes me. Through the glass windows I can see the lights of Gangtok town filter through and create a mosaic on the glass. I turn off the light and go to sleep. But I see the lofty ranges and the snowflakes in the semi slumber. It is almost dreamy like and I doze off.

Tomorrow is the big PERMIT day!

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